Fashion Wash Shirts Instruction
This is the standard of finish to be applied to all buyer casual shirts until further notice. All incoming raw materials must be checked for colour against the ‘Buyer Approved Bulk Submission’ and continuity between individual rolls/cones of each batch/dye lots. The detailed requirements and process are specified in the ‘Buyer Colour Manual’ and include the following...- Non- Fuse interlining only
- No Fusing in pocket flaps (if applicable)
- 20/2 thread for needle . A Calibrated light box that meets requirements as specified.
- 20/2 for bobbin only where underside can be seen, i.e. collars, cuffs, collar band, pocket flaps, see Make Sheet 1 for instructions.
- 10 spi everywhere. The Buyer Approved Colour Standards as specified must be available.
- Delivered to wash house with fronts tacked and cuffs (if L/S) tacked to hem.
- 50° Wash Shirts for 20mins . This decision must also be discussed with the Buyer Technical Manager
- Silicon Softener\. Records/samples must be maintained for each roll/cone from every batch/dye lot.
- Acceptance of the delivery must be an established accept/reject points basis which must be set against the sites ability to meet the finished product specification. . 80% Steam Dry
- 20% Cool Dry. A clear process must be established to identify how a final decision of approval is established and communicated.
- Garments to be laid in pack of qty 5 then sleeves folded in and pack folded in half only for delivery from Wash Shirts house to factory.
- DO NOT STACK LARGE QUANTITIES OF SHIRTS after wash in Wash House or during finishing in factory.( to avoid micro creasing which can not be removed because these shirts will not be pressed)
- Care must be taken in Factory finishing not to add further creasing to garments.
- Centre front hem must be level, (a) pattern to be adjusted before wash (b) Button attachment
- Bottom Button to be attached first to make sure hem is level
- The collar and top button to make sure the neck area is presentable
- Finally all other buttons are attached spreading the excess under placket between them.
- NO PRESSING OR STEAMING of shirt
- ONLY the collar to be VERY LIGHTLY Steamed – NO CONTACT of Iron - to lightly reshape collar.
- Check hem presentation (may require dry press over a cotton cover – if required)
- If the style is S/S with turned back cuff then the cuff needs to be touched with the Iron on the INSIDE to crease the seam so it stays folded back. The iron should only be touched at the back of the arm and front of the arm. Do not iron all the way round.
- Ensure cuffs are touch pressed on the break line not above.
- LIGHTLY press panels (front and back). DO NOT PRESS ANY SEAMS. The panels should not be pressed smooth; the customer does still want some surface detail visible.
- LIGHTLY PRESS POCKET FLAPS SO THAT THERE ARE NONE FOLDED OVER.
- Any questions contact Andrew immediately.
Shirt Instructions
A factory must be able to demonstrate that a raw material in use in the manufacturing process has been approved. Regarding the below issue about that fabric with not basic colour, all colour with mix.Then Acid wash with PP(Potassium permanganate) weaker colour going to be colour less & basic colour stay on the fabric. Here green is a mixed colour of blue & yellow.Blue is much weaker then yellow. So blue is going during PP. That’s why yellow is more visible. Where any raw material which is out of tolerance but is approved on a ‘commercial’ basis, this process must be documented and the decision must be made by a senior member of staff with records maintained
Where the approval process has taken place at a different location, copies of all the inspection and testing documentation must be available with the material. What we’ve to do for minimize the defect wash time & PP % should be reduce, then Wash Shirts appearances will be change.
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