Pre Production Process in Garment Industry

Mashiur Rahman

31.10.15

Pre Production Process:

Without pre production process meeting don’t start trial production. During PP meeting PM/Line chief/Supervisor/QAM/QAS & GASL team attendance mandatory. Size set should be make all color coverage one size set. Should be submit all necessary documents PPM require. Production build up plan need to monitor by factory manager. Factory should submit the trial run first output garments to GASL office (Mr. Raham & Arland) for mannequin & bulk production approval. Without GASL managers review trial production garments, we cannot be allow bulk.

Pre Production Checklist:

Should be display styling review comments in sewing line.
Should be submit critical operation mock up during PPM.
Line layout & production plan should be submit during PPM.
Trims check list, inventory report & invoices submit durin
Dedicated sewing line & floor.
Dedicated QA organogram and pre production checklist

Finishing & Packing Requirements:

Dedicated finishing line.
Dedicated QA organogram.
Finishing layout should be display.
Size wise process should be require.
Pressing & folding approval display.
Size wise hang tag, price ticket & other tag keeping.
Hourly quality audit report monitoring.
Hourly measurement report monitoring.
Hourly packing audit report monitoring.
Dedicated Packer man.
Packing carton should be seal & sign by dedicated packer.
MOC, PO, packing list & barcode file should be checked by dedicated packer and keep record.
Packing confirmation report filled by dedicated QA.
Packaging check list filled by dedicated QA.
Carton weight check list filled by dedicated packer.
Re-packing should be done inside inspection room.
Re-packing check record keeping for pre production process in garment industry

Pre Production Meeting

OBJECTIVE

The objective for conducting a Pre-Production (PP) meeting is to review, clarify any doubts and address potential issues prior to production. This gives the suppliers (factories) the opportunity to take precautionary steps in a proactive manner, so that final product exceeds or meet customer’s requirements (see separate document regarding Quality Statement).

WHO IS RESPONSIBLE-

Auto does not own any manufacturing facilities. PEI buys a product at a price that has been agreed upon prior to issuance of a Purchase Order (PO). Therefore it is the responsibility of the supplier/factory to ensure that products are shipped as per specification required by PEI and its customers. As such, the PP meeting is primarily a Supplier’s responsibility, though at times, PEI Technicians or Quality Assurance (QA) associates may participate and provide constructive feedback related to product quality requirements.

WHO SHOULD PARTICIPATE:

Production, Quality & Merchandising management responsible for the product/brand. A chairperson to be nominated so that meeting undergoes in a collaborative and productive manner.
Representative/s from product development area such as a technician, pattern maker etc.
Responsible persons from fabric & trim warehouse/s,
Cutting room manager or representative,
Sewing line Pre Production Process supervisor/trainer
Sewing line mechanic,
Sewing line QC supervisor,
Finishing/pressing manager or representative,
Finishing area QC supervisor
Packing manager or representative,
Embellishment section manager or representative (embroidery, printing etc)
In the case of washed product, washing plant manager or representative,
Final auditor representing customer,
A coordinator or any of the above persons assigned to fill the PP Meeting Report.
If the style is to be made in multiple lines or locations, then representatives from those lines & locations must also be present, or a separate meeting held in that specific location.
If it is an authorized sub-contractor who is making the product, then representatives from that factory must also be present unless a separate meeting will be conducted for them.

WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU DO NOT CONDUCTING A PP MEETING?-

You may encounter quality issues during production, which in turn will cause poor product quality.
You may encounter loss in production due to stoppage of an operation for reason mentioned previously. You may damage the product due to poor selection of machineries/equipments because you did not discuss and prepare what you need well in advance.

WHEN SHOULD PP MEETINGS BE CONDUCTED?-

Generally, this meeting should be conducted as soon as the customer approves a PP sample. This must be done for all new factories, new styles/design, new fabrics and new washes. In the case of an ongoing style, this must be done every three months as a refresher, unless there has been issues in recent shipments, an emergency follow-up meeting must be conducted immediately. It is common that some or all of bulk sewing and packing trims may not have arrived prior PP meeting. This gives an opportunity to alert the trim warehouse representatives to take needed steps when the trims come in during production. Under no circumstances should production commence without a formal PP meeting. Records of PP Meeting Reports must be available for PEI review upon request.

ITEMS TO BE ON HAND DURING PP MEETING-

Customer’s and internal translated tech packs
Approved hand standard or wash standard.
Approved embellishment standard (embroidery, print etc).
PP sample comments made by supplier and/or PEI overseas office technicians/QA associates prior to sending PP sample for approval.
Approved PP sample comments made by relevant PEI brand/customer.
Approved PP sample along with additional reference PP sample for production.
Pre Production Process approval sample color tags
Fabric inspection & test reports.
Trim inspection & test reports, including fusible interlining test report.
Approved trim card.
Marking boards &/or templates, folders and attachments etc.
Completed master QC file (with PO, UPC sheet etc)
Pre-Production Meeting Report blank form.

PREPARATION:-

The Pre-Production Meeting Report contains a one page document that is to be used to filled by either PEI QC or the Supplier/Factory QC-

PROCEDURE:-

Verify PO available with factory team is the most updated one.
Verify fabric hand standard, wash standard (if applicable) and color has been approved by PEI customer and that a reference standard will be issued for production reference.
In the case of yarn, quality and color have been approved.
Verify that the fabric test have been done by an approved 3rd party independent lab.
In case of yarn, inspection and test have been done and approved.
Verify the fabric inspection report does not show any fabric defect that appears to be of danger or repeating type that may cause disruption to cutting efficiency even though the average point count may be within the tolerance
Verify if fabric test report done in-house (such as shrinkage, skew etc) is within the norm and does not require any special handling prior to/during/after cutting. This includes verifying if PPS has been tested for special claims such as Wrinkle Free, No Iron etc using three repeat home laundering as per care instruction. If it is a dry cleaned product, verify if PPS has been sent for dry cleaning and appearance of garment is acceptable.
Verify if Flammability test has been done (if applicable) based on type of fabric being used. Test reports should have result if the fabric is less than 3 oz or if the fabric has raised fiber.
Verify that special design standard (such as embroidery, printing, rhinestone etc) is available and that reference standard will be issued for production reference. Review details related to this process. Refer US Textile & Fiber Acts website.

Trims-

Verify that all trim inspection & tests has been done and passed care instructions. This includes determining if certain trims have to be attached after washing, such as leather patches, metal buttons etc.
Verify if for any children’s product all safety testing is done and that for tops no draw cards are used.
Review fusing standard by way of fusing tests done either by interlining supplier or internal product development area and that a standard (time, pressure and speed) have been pre-established for bulk Pre Production Process reference.
Review trim card and ensure that all trims have been verified by the PEI merchandiser and approved for distribution. If there are missing trims, ensure who will take responsibility to complete trim card on time prior to commencement of each manufacturing process.

Product Development-

Verify QC file check-list against documents within the QC file are correct.
Verify if PDM on hand is the most updated one.
Ensure that FIT & PPS has been approved by PEI customer.
Verify if PPS is approved after in house testing.
Verify if size set is approved for pattern placement and grading.
Cross check PEI’s and internal tech packs against approved PP sample to ensure that all details on tech pack is accurate and that are no doubts on the part of all production and QC staffing (If this has been done previously by product development areas, then this must be acknowledged for record purpose).
Cross check PEI overseas office/supplier’s PP sample comments/email against customer’s approved PP sample comments/email making sure that customer has addressed all clarification highlighted by PEI overseas office and/or supplier (If this has been done previously by product development areas, then this must be acknowledged for record purpose).
Cross check customer’s approval comments/email against the approved PP sample making sure that critical areas are marked on PP sample for production reference for visual purpose (If this has been done previously by product development areas, then this must be acknowledged for record purpose).
Product development technician to show QC supervisor and internal final auditor representing each customer on how to inspect garment/measure on a mannequin/table so that they in turn will train their inspectors to review in the same way.

Cutting-

Review cutting room handling process for the specific fabric, lining etc to ensure that all special handling method has been addressed, including storage method, matching, pinning, block cutting, nap direction etc. Verification if 100% panel inspection is needed
even though 4 point inspection has been passed.
Address method to handle cut parts bundle storage and transportation method to sewing line as well as handling of panels and semi-assembly parts within sewing line

Knitting-

Review the following related to knitting area-
Measurement grading guide is available for use to check panels during knitting, standard
for knitted panel established, gauge, tension, construction and notches, yarn size and tonal color yarn for separating yarn, looser row on the edge of the panel for linking, ends per color and position on body, color position per combo, fully fashion mark on neck seam, armhole and shoulder seam, if elastic has been added to the cuff and bottom hem edge.

Sewing-

Identify critical operations for sewing that needs additional supervision during production. This includes the establishment of mock-ups to be displayed at the specific operation and approved by QA team, the positioning of trainers to support QC staff monitor critical operations.
Determine special machineries, folders and attachments that are needed to make the relevant operation easy to handle during production, which in turns helps build a quality product.
Determine correct size and quality of needles to be used for critical operations during production and frequency of needle changes needed to avoid fabric damages.

Linking-

Review the following for linking process-
Linking yarn gauge and tension, check stretch condition prior to pulling separating yarn, check run stitch/open seam, exposed or hidden seam, linking yarn color change for particular pattern, stripe pattern match between armhole and seam, shoulder tape, if there is a need to add tape to keep panels stable for garment dyed styles, drum lighting condition, security stitch at armhole, placket, pocket and cuff etc

Washing-

If it is a washed product, identify method of handling garments from sewing plant to washing plant and from washing plant to finishing area.
Identify action needed to be taken by washing plant staff with respect to washing quality controls needed to achieve hand feel, appearance, color (including preparation of shade band if needed), measurements and quality as per customer’s requirements.

Finishing/Pressing-

Review button and hook/bar etc attaching guidelines are clear and understood by relevant parties.
Review button-hole quality and blade size needed to ensure smooth insertion of button meeting customer’s requirements.
Identify finishing procedure as well as method handling of finished garment so that minimal pressing is required. Excessive wrinkles require excessive pressing which is non-productive and may not improve appearance of product.
In the case of sweaters, clarify if frame or boards for pressing is available.
Identify pressing requirements, standard to be established and handling method of pressed product. This includes verifying if pressing equipment available is adequate or special equipment is needed to press for best presentation

Quality Controls-

For in-process inspection purpose, determine locations of quality check points and frequency of workmanship inspection needed. This includes locations where frequent visits to check critical sewing operations.
Determine the areas that require measurement of garments or parts more frequently and immediately after each sewing process so that errors are detected immediately and not after garments are completed. In-process measurements help to detect issues earlier.
Determine amount of poly bagged garments and cartons to be checked for packaging integrity prior to factory internal final inspection. Agree upon the need to do more frequency of packaging integrity inspection for key customers such as JC Penny, Kohl’s based on volume of production per day.

Packing-

Identify packaging trim attaching method on garment. If actual paper trims are not available a mock-up garment is made and presented using substitute trims.
Review method of folding and/or hanging method on hanger if applicable, usage of poly bag (master or individual), and closure of poly bag as well as quality, length & width of poly bag including the additional length required.
Verify if size strip quality test has been done to determine if strip is BHT free so that color of garment will not change on the area where the sticker is placed. And ensure to address that the size strip is stored in a cool area or an air conditioned room.
Verify carton packing method/requirements based on customer’s needs. This includes verifying packing ratio for pre-packs or standard pack. Have an agreement as to when packing trials will be done.
Verify that proper carton size is selected to maximize carton utilization so that minimum number of CBM is needed for each shipment, thus reducing freight cost.
Verify if the specific city or country is required to ship with anti-mold dry sack packs within the container.

PRIOR TO CONCLUSION

Upon agreement, each person who participated in the meeting should sign their name confirming the same.
PEI office merchandising and quality team covering the factory. All QA auditors should have a hard copy in their QC file.
Approved PP sample for Pre Production Process reference to be identified with color coded tag and PP meeting comments stapled onto the tag.

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