Dyeing of Fabrics for Contrast
For any customer, whether it is auto or marks and spencer or nike, there are special processes which need to put in place when making garments with contrast colour components. This is to avoid cross staining when washing (‘colour fastness to washing’), or when getting the garment wet (‘colour fastness to cold water’).It is vıtal that everyone in your company understands these processes. If you do not pay attention to them, you wıll get cross staınıng wıthın a garment.
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What is Dyeing of
Fabrics for Contrast Colour Garments
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As a dyeing manager you are responsible for ensuring these steps are taken. Remember these points:
1. The auto standard for “colour staining” on most garments is grade 4.
But….when the fabric is to be used with a lighter colour in the same garment, thıs standard rıses to grade 4-5 for colour fastness to washıng and water when staınıng the fabrıc composıtıon of the lıght colour ın the garment
ın order to reach this higher standard there are extra processes in dyeing and finishing which the dyeing factory must carry out. In order for them to do this, you must inform the dyeing factory when you place the fabric order that the fabric will be used in the same garment with other colours including light colours.
2. When the fabric is dyed, before taking delivery from the fabric supplier you must insist on “cross staining” tests. This consists of sewing two pieces in contrasting colours together, washing them, and assessing the staining onto the lighter colour. This must be no worse than 4-5. If it is worse than 4-5 (eg 4, or 3-4, you must reject it, because you wıll get cross staining) you must also carry out a cross staining test to cold water. The method to adopt here is to carry out the normal cold water test with the two bulk colours sewn together. This will indicate if there is any cross staining to cold water. Again the staining onto the lighter colour must be no worse than 4-5
Example : a garment in red, white, and navy panels. You will need cross staining washing and cold water of :
Red / white
Navy / white
Red / navy
3. remember trims and linings are also important. If you have, say, a lining in red in an ecru coloured jacket, You must also test thıs lınıng for staınıng onto the lıght colours of the garment.
4. On garments with white woven trims, eg white collars on rugbys, always conduct cross staining tests before cutting to ensure no cross staining worse than 4-5
5. If your garment has white or light components (eg a red draw string on an ecru jacket) you must carry out cross staining against this component.
6. After all the above tests, and again, before cuttıng, make up a garment in each colourway, and have it washed at 10 degrees above the washing instruction in the wash care label.
Summary
· Always tell the dyeing factory that the fabric is to be used with lighter contrast fabrics, and tell them the composition of these fabrics· Always test for cross staining before fabric is dispatched from the fabric supplier.
· Always test cross-staining for washing and cold water
· Always test for cross staining of trims before cutting
· Always wash a garment at 10 degrees above care label before cutting to check for cross staining
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