General Quality Requests Regarding Production

19.9.17

General Quality Requests

We always work to make sure that a good is produced with 100% quality. All tolerances stated in this section must be understood as peak values! Under the case that these tolerances are exceeded, Buyer will certainly not accept these products quality.

General Quality Requests Regarding Production

Main Fabrics

The main fabrics must be suitable with the standards stated in the Vendor Manual
The sewing endurance must be suitable with the request expected from the related group.
Holes must be prevented in all dimensions.
Fabric which is dirty, stained, bad adored, disorderly painted or fabric which has printing errors will not be accepted.
If a special effect has not been requested, the woven fabric should be woven straight and symmetric.
If it is not a characteristic of the fabric, thread thickening should be prevented.
Electrostatic loads must be eliminated during the taming procedure.

Lining Fabrics

The lining fabrics must be suitable with the standards stated in the Vendor Manual.
The washing and shrinking values of the lining fabrics must be adjusted according to the main fabric.
Unless there is a different request, the colour of the lining fabric must be the same colour as the main fabric.

Interfacing

The quality of the interfacing must be suitable to the main fabric.
There must not be deformation in the appearance of the product after the washing and ironing process.
Interfacing which sticks on by ironing must be very well stuck onto the main fabric; there must not be any waves and air bubbles. The sticky material should not pass onto the front face of the main fabric.
The colour of the interfacing must be suitable with the colour of the main fabric.
The interfacing must be of a General Quality that will not be affected at the end of the washing, drying or ironing processes.
The interfacing should be cut on 45 degree bias inside shirt & blouse cuff and collar.Sewing Threads

The sewing threads used must be suitable with the main fabric in terms of the following points:

Resistance
Shrinking in result of washing
Endurance against heat
Colour
Colour purity
The quality and thickness of the sewing threads must be chosen as best suitable for the product.
“COATS” is the preferable quality for products.

Buttons

The colour purity of the buttons must be suitable to the standards; they must definitely not bleed dye.
The buttons must not get damaged after washing, dry cleaning and drying procedures.
The buttons must not have nickel.
Unless there is a different request, the colour of the buttons must be the same colour as the main fabric.
The button positions must be marked with the help of a stencil.
The button position must be taken as a buttonhole reference for marking in the cuffs.
Buttons with shank must be sewn in thick General Quality fabric and sewing thread with thermo fix must be used for this application.
One spare button must be placed in the “Spare Button Bag”

Buttonhole

The buttonhole positions must be marked with the help of a stencil.
The sides of the buttonholes must be tightly wrapped.
The tightness of the wrapping must be arranged according to the quality of the fabric.
The size of the buttonholes must be arranged according to the buttons (the buttons should be able to easily open and close but it should not exit the buttonhole by itself).
The beginning and ending points of the buttonhole must be strong.
Key hole buttonholes must definitely be opened in woven jackets, coats and vests.
If there are no further instructions, the buttonholes must be opened lengthwise in collared blouses shirts. Only the top buttonhole must be opened to its width.
If there are no further instructions, the buttonholes must be opened lengthwise in curled top products. The very top button must take place in the top corner of the button hole. The other buttons will centre according to the buttonholes.

Zippers

The zippers must not have nickel.
Unless there is a different request, the band colour of the zipper must be the same colour as the main fabric.
The zipper must be able to zip and unzip easily.
The zippers must be sewn straight and without forming curling/waves.
YKK is the preferable brand for products.
Weaving Labels and Washing Instruction Labels
he weaving labels must be suitable with the standards stated in the Vendor Manual.
The weaving labels must be placed and sewn according to the instructions stated in the Vendor Manual unless otherwise specified on spec packs.
Washing instruction labels must be placed and sewn according to the instructions stated in the Vendor Manual unless otherwise specified on spec packs

Shoulder Padding

Shoulder padding must be suitably chosen in terms of form and colour according to the product.
The shoulder padding must be durable against dry cleaning and washing.

Elastics, Elastic Belts, Elastic Sleeve Hems

The elastic must be chosen as suitable to the product and it must not be very stiff.
The elastic must be durable against washing and it must not lose its elasticity after usage.
Stabilize the belt in the proper form when necessary.
The width of the belt tunnel must be equal all around.
The elastic must not turn.
The tips of the elastic must be sewn by bringing each one exactly on top of each other.

Bands & Tapes

The bands & tapes and the main fabric must not stain each other.
The bands and tapes must be in chosen General Quality ,suitable to the product & color.

Cutting & Marking

The fabric must not be stiff while it is spread out.
Cutting must always be suitable with the fabric’s grain line and if applicable its patterns.
Markings must be able to be eliminated after the cutting procedure.
The fabric must not be damaged during the marking procedure and no markings must be visible on the final product.
Markings must be done according to the pattern.
There is no tolerance for deviation in the width-height measurements between in the cutting patterns and the cut pieces.

Seam Allowances

If different information is provided on the patterns or technical packs, the sewing proportion on woven and knit products is always 1 cm.

Striped/reported Fabrics

Report patterned/striped fabrics must be cut in a form best suitable to the pattern. Please abide by the instructions of the design/technical departments regarding this subject.

Beads, sequins, stones, Lurex

The appearance of models with the use of these kinds of accessories must be the same throughout all products.
The bead and sequins must be sewn firmly.
Stones which are stuck on with an iron must be placed according to the instructions.
These types of accessories must not fall off after the procedures of washing, dry cleaning or drying.
Embroidery interfacing or bonding materials must be fully cleaned.

Requests regarding Finished Products

The measurements of the completed products must be suitable to the measurements provided on the measurement tables.
The products must have the correct fit.
No changes should be made on the measurement table prepared by Erk Pazarlama AS. The measurements have been arranged according to the fabric qualities.

Embroidery/Appliqués

Prints

The position and size provided must definitely be met.
The striking volume and the quality of the interfacing used are determined according to the fabric.
Appliqués must be stabile against rupture.
The embroidery interfacing or the bonding material must be fully cleaned.

Ironing and Iron Mark

The heat, pressure and steam values must be arranged according to the characteristics below, during the ironing process.
Humidity and inflation characteristics
Reaction to heat
Elasticity
Weaving type
The finishing procedures
Iron shining and iron marks must be prevented (Teflon or a suitable iron bottom should be used in situations where necessary).
Irons should be arranged according to fabric quality and product groups.
Front Pants
The iron marks must be in the direction of the straight thread of the fabric.
The iron marks must be formed by bringing the belt and the marks on the legs and the cutting edges together
Back Pants
On the top parts the iron marks are not in the direction of the straight thread of the fabric.
The iron marks are to be formed during the final ironing stage.
The leg inner and outer stitches in the bottom parts are to be brought on top of each other.

Bottom and Sleeve Hem Folding

The bottom and sleeve hems must be straight.
The bottom and sleeve hems must be evenly folded and sewn.
The beginning and ending stitches of the bottom and sleeve hems must be strengthened.
The bottom and sleeve hems must be sewn after the side stitches are closed.
The length adjustments of models which are cut in the shape of a bell must be done before the bottom hem is folded.
The stitching shares on the bottom and sleeve hems must be properly cleaned.

Pockets

The pockets must be sewn in the previously marked positions.
If further information is not applicable, the pockets must be sewn symmetrically.
The pocket entrances must be stabilized with bar tacks unless otherwise required.
The pockets must be stabilized with an appropriate interfacing unless otherwise is required.
In essential situations the pocket entrances must be protected against hanging and unstitching with backstitches.

Pleats, Tucks, Dart

There must not be curling at the hems of the pleats.
0,7 cm of thread must be left at the finishing of the pleat, tucks, darts
The sewing margin on vertical pleats, tucks and darts must always be laid from front/back centre and then it must be ironed.
The sewing margin on horizontal pleats, tucks and darts must always be laid to upwards.
In jackets with lining, a lining strip must be left at the finishing of the pleats in the width of 4 cm and in the length of 8 cm. The pleat and the lining must be separated while ironing, unless otherwise required.

Collars

The collar and the collar stand must be joined in a straight and a matching form.
The collar and the collar stand must work symmetrically.
The collar seam allowance must be well cleaned and must be turned in a straight way.
The bottom collar must be placed as invisible under the top collar. If necessary the top collar should e ut larger.
The side length of the collar and the collar stand must be equal to the length of the body side in order to prevent curling and stiffness.

Hangers

Hangers for tops
Unless otherwise specified Hangers must be prepared from fabric strips which have been cut diagonally (must abide by the instructions for fabric quality).
The completed length must be 8 cm.
The completed width must be 0,5 cm.
The hanger must be sewn to the back collar niche in a 5 cm gap in a round shape.
For models which have an open collar, the special instructions received from Brands should be taken into consideration.
Hangers for skirts
Hangers are to be sewn for leather, wool, velvet, and lined velvet and cotton skirts.
Independently from the fabric General Quality, hangers will not be sewn for skirts which have elastic on the skirt waist.
Hangers will be prepared from ready bands (width 0,5cm).
In products with attachable belts or form borders the cutting length of hangers must be 20cm.
The cutting length of hangers for belts with their own curve is 30cm.
Hangers must hang downwards and they must be sewn in this direction.
4 hangers in the length of 20cm are to be sewn by leaving 4 cm between each one
Hangers for pants
Hangers will only be sewn for pants with the special instructions of Brands.
The workmanship is the same as stated above for skirts.

BeltLoops

Loops must be prepared with loop stitching machines. The Finished length should be = Belt width + 0,5 cm. unless otherwise required.
If there are not different instructions, the loops must be prepared in the standard width.
The loop positions are marked on the stencils.
The turn under allowance should be 1cm long.

Stitches

If there has been no further information, there must be 3 stitch steps in 1 cm, and there must always be 4-4,5 stitch steps in blouses and shirts.
The stitch flexibility must be determined according to the fabric and requirement.
All cutting sides on products without lining and all visible cutting sides on lined products must be cleaned with an overlook.
The starting and finishing of stitches must be strengthened.
Overhanging threads must be cleaned.
Stitches must always be made in the same direction.
Stitch skipping is not accepted.
There must not be gathering/waves in the stitches.
The points where the stitches are tied together must not be visible.
Thread snapping is not accepted.
The stitches must be smooth and organized.
Blind stitches must not be externally visible.
The side stitches must be of equal length on both sides.
Side stitches should not rotate.
Stitch beginnings and endings should be back tacked 3 count.
The stitches which are to be applied must be suitable with the model.
The margin and gauge must be even and equal.

Slits/vents

The all types of slits must be straight.
The length of both slits must be equal to each other.
The slits must be stabilized with a bar tack or a zigzag stitch from the top.

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